Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Sevilla
This past weekend I went to Sevilla from Saturday afternoon until Sunday evening. Of course everyone has heard at least something about how amazing Sevilla is, or they have experienced it themselves. So what do I write in my blog about Sevilla?
To get to Sevilla from Jerez de la Frontera there are three ways, although only two are available to me, train, bus or car. Since it is always important to remember that in Spain, and especially in smaller cities, the weekend always has a more limited availability for transportation, shopping, and access to necessities.
I did not check the train schedule before getting to the station, which I would now always suggest to do, even if the train says it leaves on the hour, and found the next train was not for a couple of hours.
Luckily the bus station is right next to the train station in Jerez and I was able to catch a bus for only 7.30 euros with an easy 1 hour and ten minute drive from Jerez to the center of Sevilla.
The bus station is conveniently located next to the parque Santa Louisa, which is also located very near the city center of Sevilla, making a first visit and orientating yourself quite easy and, well almost entirely pain free.
I say almost pain free because my choice of shoes for the two day trip were my new Macy's open toed ankle boots, that sadly failed to comfort my feet just after stepping off the bus in Sevilla.
Despite the pain, walking around the city was really an enjoyable experience with all the Moorish architecture, horse drawn carriages and expansive blue skies. The weather was warm for this time of year, and even going out at night I was comfortable without a jacket.
Unlike Jerez, Sevilla maintains a steady flow of people throughout the day as there are many more tourists in Sevilla. I could not help but get excited to see all the other people walking around in the early afternoon and feel the anticipation for what the night would bring.
I have found that in Spain, with the night comes the Spanards. I stayed in a new and comfortable hostel on calle Sierpes, the main shopping street in the center of Sevilla called Hostel Nuevo Suiza with breakfast, internet, international telephone, and coffee inlcuded in the very reasonable price. Yes I did say there was free coffee included with the Hostel and you can bet that I took full advantage of that, practically paying for the three person private room in the amount of coffee I consumed in just under 24 hours.
Of course my budget for the trip was lower than the normal traveler, being only 65 euros, my weekly pay here in Jerez. I managed to survive the weekend spending just 65.45 euros. including transport, room, a nice filling Spanish lunch on Sunday, and even a new sparkly shirt from H & M for just 20 euros that I used for going out.
As I mentioned before, the night is the time of the Spanish, and as the sun set, and the busy shoppers outside our hostel, well we were included in those shoppers, left the closing stores around 9 pm, a new rush began.
A rush to get ready and get out into the city. Sevilla is famous for offering riverside bars, discotechs, or clubs, and high class flamenco. I of course went for the cheaper and visited the local bars for the majority of the night. Popping into one called The Oscars, where I was given a flyer to have a free drink. Then I hit the bars across the river on Calle Betis along the river front with a spectacular view of the lit up Cathedral that you can see from practically anywhere around the city.
We had a couple shots at a bar for just 1 euro each and finished the night about a five minute walk into Triana at a Salsa bar, which is not all that common to find in Sevilla.
The next morning was a trip into the impressive and ancient Cathedral of Sevilla that proclaims to be the third largest after those in London and Rome. While the giant complex was shocking to behold from outside, once I stepped through the door, I found it vacant and a little creepy.
After a nice Spanish lunch eating from the menu of the day with a paella, lamb, fish and finishing the meal off with arroz con leche, I spent the afternoon resting on an ornate bench in the Plaza de Espana, getting home around 9 in the evening.
Out of all that I did and saw in my short first trip to Sevilla, I would have to summarize the city in just one word, culture. It is truly a magical city bursting forth with culture and creativity. This first trip to the city was really just the first bite, to learn the flavor and orient myself, but it left me only wanting more and more, and it looks like I will be making many return journeys!
To get to Sevilla from Jerez de la Frontera there are three ways, although only two are available to me, train, bus or car. Since it is always important to remember that in Spain, and especially in smaller cities, the weekend always has a more limited availability for transportation, shopping, and access to necessities.
I did not check the train schedule before getting to the station, which I would now always suggest to do, even if the train says it leaves on the hour, and found the next train was not for a couple of hours.
Luckily the bus station is right next to the train station in Jerez and I was able to catch a bus for only 7.30 euros with an easy 1 hour and ten minute drive from Jerez to the center of Sevilla.
The bus station is conveniently located next to the parque Santa Louisa, which is also located very near the city center of Sevilla, making a first visit and orientating yourself quite easy and, well almost entirely pain free.
I say almost pain free because my choice of shoes for the two day trip were my new Macy's open toed ankle boots, that sadly failed to comfort my feet just after stepping off the bus in Sevilla.
Despite the pain, walking around the city was really an enjoyable experience with all the Moorish architecture, horse drawn carriages and expansive blue skies. The weather was warm for this time of year, and even going out at night I was comfortable without a jacket.
Unlike Jerez, Sevilla maintains a steady flow of people throughout the day as there are many more tourists in Sevilla. I could not help but get excited to see all the other people walking around in the early afternoon and feel the anticipation for what the night would bring.
I have found that in Spain, with the night comes the Spanards. I stayed in a new and comfortable hostel on calle Sierpes, the main shopping street in the center of Sevilla called Hostel Nuevo Suiza with breakfast, internet, international telephone, and coffee inlcuded in the very reasonable price. Yes I did say there was free coffee included with the Hostel and you can bet that I took full advantage of that, practically paying for the three person private room in the amount of coffee I consumed in just under 24 hours.
Of course my budget for the trip was lower than the normal traveler, being only 65 euros, my weekly pay here in Jerez. I managed to survive the weekend spending just 65.45 euros. including transport, room, a nice filling Spanish lunch on Sunday, and even a new sparkly shirt from H & M for just 20 euros that I used for going out.
As I mentioned before, the night is the time of the Spanish, and as the sun set, and the busy shoppers outside our hostel, well we were included in those shoppers, left the closing stores around 9 pm, a new rush began.
A rush to get ready and get out into the city. Sevilla is famous for offering riverside bars, discotechs, or clubs, and high class flamenco. I of course went for the cheaper and visited the local bars for the majority of the night. Popping into one called The Oscars, where I was given a flyer to have a free drink. Then I hit the bars across the river on Calle Betis along the river front with a spectacular view of the lit up Cathedral that you can see from practically anywhere around the city.
We had a couple shots at a bar for just 1 euro each and finished the night about a five minute walk into Triana at a Salsa bar, which is not all that common to find in Sevilla.
The next morning was a trip into the impressive and ancient Cathedral of Sevilla that proclaims to be the third largest after those in London and Rome. While the giant complex was shocking to behold from outside, once I stepped through the door, I found it vacant and a little creepy.
After a nice Spanish lunch eating from the menu of the day with a paella, lamb, fish and finishing the meal off with arroz con leche, I spent the afternoon resting on an ornate bench in the Plaza de Espana, getting home around 9 in the evening.
Out of all that I did and saw in my short first trip to Sevilla, I would have to summarize the city in just one word, culture. It is truly a magical city bursting forth with culture and creativity. This first trip to the city was really just the first bite, to learn the flavor and orient myself, but it left me only wanting more and more, and it looks like I will be making many return journeys!
Friday, October 23, 2009
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Confessions of a shopaholic...
Anyone who did not see this blog coming obviously does not know me very well. For those of you who don't know me that well, while some may say I have an addiction to shopping, I call it just another aspect of Spanish culture I must thoroughly explore!
In coming to Spain, and specifically to Jerez, I knew a few things already about the culture. The flamenco, sherry, and horses, just to name a few cultural items, and of course I cannot neglect Zara, the icon of Spanish culture to the world.
I naturally had had a taste of Zara while "familiarizing myself with the London culture" and since coming to Spain, and well in truth, the entire month preceding my entry to Spain, I have been impatiently awaiting my full immersion into this aspect of Spanish culture and life.
It completely and utterly did not disappoint!
As I stepped through the doors and began simply to browse and collect prospects for future purchases, I groaned when my eyes fell upon a pair of knee high dark tan leather boots in the traditional style of Jerez that all the fashionable young women of Jerez wear. They were a mere 95 Euros! Hence the groan from someone like me who makes just 65 Euros a week as an au pair.
As I said, I was only in Zara to get the lay of the land. I promised myself to not spend anything this week and save my money for a much anticipated trip to Sevilla this weekend, but after one round through the women's department alone I was back in the swing of easy shopping I perfected through a summer of living at home in Southern California.
So I decided I would try on a few basic items moderately priced, which are really essentials for this new colder fall weather in Jerez. Having already made my mental notes on four such items, and having successfully found the dressing room hidden in a corner of older woman's clothes, I "quickly" grabbed an aqua sweater priced at 12.95 Euros, a black long sleeve knee length jersey dress for 16.95 and riding style skinny pants, 29.95.
The real prize was a man's style blazer with the wool ovals on the elbows like English gentlemen wear in a tan to compliment my hair color and a single button to flatter my curves. It was the perfect length!
To bring all this back to reality and to end my little shopping confession, after witnessing the culmination of Spanish culture and influence in one clothing store, I found, through the justification that I needed another jacket, I must have the blazer and I purchased it for 40 Euros.
I walked out of Zara feeling a rush of cultural immersion and just a little bit more Spanish myself!
In coming to Spain, and specifically to Jerez, I knew a few things already about the culture. The flamenco, sherry, and horses, just to name a few cultural items, and of course I cannot neglect Zara, the icon of Spanish culture to the world.
I naturally had had a taste of Zara while "familiarizing myself with the London culture" and since coming to Spain, and well in truth, the entire month preceding my entry to Spain, I have been impatiently awaiting my full immersion into this aspect of Spanish culture and life.
It completely and utterly did not disappoint!
As I stepped through the doors and began simply to browse and collect prospects for future purchases, I groaned when my eyes fell upon a pair of knee high dark tan leather boots in the traditional style of Jerez that all the fashionable young women of Jerez wear. They were a mere 95 Euros! Hence the groan from someone like me who makes just 65 Euros a week as an au pair.
As I said, I was only in Zara to get the lay of the land. I promised myself to not spend anything this week and save my money for a much anticipated trip to Sevilla this weekend, but after one round through the women's department alone I was back in the swing of easy shopping I perfected through a summer of living at home in Southern California.
So I decided I would try on a few basic items moderately priced, which are really essentials for this new colder fall weather in Jerez. Having already made my mental notes on four such items, and having successfully found the dressing room hidden in a corner of older woman's clothes, I "quickly" grabbed an aqua sweater priced at 12.95 Euros, a black long sleeve knee length jersey dress for 16.95 and riding style skinny pants, 29.95.
The real prize was a man's style blazer with the wool ovals on the elbows like English gentlemen wear in a tan to compliment my hair color and a single button to flatter my curves. It was the perfect length!
To bring all this back to reality and to end my little shopping confession, after witnessing the culmination of Spanish culture and influence in one clothing store, I found, through the justification that I needed another jacket, I must have the blazer and I purchased it for 40 Euros.
I walked out of Zara feeling a rush of cultural immersion and just a little bit more Spanish myself!
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Tastes, well almost, just like home!
Today I picnicked in the park with the other au pairs and for lunch I quickly made myself a peanut butter sandwhich and packed some
crackers and a peach for myself while the baby slept precariously on the couch and waited for the parents to get
home, then when they arrived I headed out the door!
I met up with the other Au Pairs in the park and enjoyed a great, though small lunch chatting with the girls about our fun, yet tiresome au pair work.
After lunch I headed to the carrefour with a couple other au pairs to put more money on my pay-too-much-as-you-go phone. I wanted to check out some possible new tea flavors since the green tea in my house basically tastes like green water. As I marched through the countless aisles of who knows what, that all seemed to blur into one word, hunger.
I am still getting over a cold, and adjusting to the new food here, so I attribute my gluttony to those two things, but as I walked home and took a nap later, I could not get my mind off of food, and especially food from home.
I mentioned earlier that I had a peanut butter sandwhich and that was because my family here graciously bought me a jar yesterday as a surprise when they came home with the groceries.
None of the other au pairs seemed that excited about the peanut butter, and one commented on, "oh yeah its an american thing". lol. I agree, it is totally an Americans love their peanut butter thing. Almost as much as the spanish love their mayonaise thing.
So, as I was laying in bed listening to the sounds of my family and neighbors, I thought about what specifically I could make that did not include bread or pasta. I came up with two solutions.
1. pancakes
2. potatoe pancakes
So really I had pancakes on my mind, and I completely blame the peanut butter from my family, that I had already enjoyed on a banana and toast, and of course my peanut butter sandwhich.
I quickly looked up a recipe for homemade pancakes online, then one in spanish to make sure i knew what all the ingredients were called, then headed downstairs to work my magic of improvisation as there were no measuring utensils in the house!
Luckily the family was all out of the house and did not witness the near disaster I had of spilling some oil and throwing dashes of random ingredients in, but in the end I got two banana pancakes and one regular that I saved for breakfast tomorrow.
On top I spread some of my precious peanut butter that was really the culprit for this whole endeavor, and in the end I was satisfied with my cup of, well, mild tea and two banana pancakes that really, almost, tasted like home.
crackers and a peach for myself while the baby slept precariously on the couch and waited for the parents to get
home, then when they arrived I headed out the door!I met up with the other Au Pairs in the park and enjoyed a great, though small lunch chatting with the girls about our fun, yet tiresome au pair work.
After lunch I headed to the carrefour with a couple other au pairs to put more money on my pay-too-much-as-you-go phone. I wanted to check out some possible new tea flavors since the green tea in my house basically tastes like green water. As I marched through the countless aisles of who knows what, that all seemed to blur into one word, hunger.
I am still getting over a cold, and adjusting to the new food here, so I attribute my gluttony to those two things, but as I walked home and took a nap later, I could not get my mind off of food, and especially food from home.
I mentioned earlier that I had a peanut butter sandwhich and that was because my family here graciously bought me a jar yesterday as a surprise when they came home with the groceries.
None of the other au pairs seemed that excited about the peanut butter, and one commented on, "oh yeah its an american thing". lol. I agree, it is totally an Americans love their peanut butter thing. Almost as much as the spanish love their mayonaise thing.
So, as I was laying in bed listening to the sounds of my family and neighbors, I thought about what specifically I could make that did not include bread or pasta. I came up with two solutions.
1. pancakes
2. potatoe pancakes
So really I had pancakes on my mind, and I completely blame the peanut butter from my family, that I had already enjoyed on a banana and toast, and of course my peanut butter sandwhich.
I quickly looked up a recipe for homemade pancakes online, then one in spanish to make sure i knew what all the ingredients were called, then headed downstairs to work my magic of improvisation as there were no measuring utensils in the house!
Luckily the family was all out of the house and did not witness the near disaster I had of spilling some oil and throwing dashes of random ingredients in, but in the end I got two banana pancakes and one regular that I saved for breakfast tomorrow.
On top I spread some of my precious peanut butter that was really the culprit for this whole endeavor, and in the end I was satisfied with my cup of, well, mild tea and two banana pancakes that really, almost, tasted like home.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
La playa y los caballos
Sunday is my absolutely free day from working, and as the weather is uncommonly warm for this time of the year, the other au pairs and I went to the beach.
From Jerez we took a bus to the train station using our bus passes that for a whole month only cost 18 euros. Then we took a train that costs 1.50 euros each way to El Puerto de Santa Maria, only like 10-12 minutes away, and finally we took another bus through El Puerto to get to the bay of Cadiz.
From the beach we could see the Peninsula of Cadiz on the other side of the bay, and sail boats and wind surfers enjoying the protected waters of the bay. The water is dirtier than when I was in Zahara on Friday, but that is to be expected from a bay, which also offers a little warmer water than the open ocean at Zahara. As I waded my way into the water I was worried about what possible animals or fish I could step on, not being able to see the bottom clearly, but then I was re-assured by the other au pairs that the waters of this area do not have sting rays.
Since all the other au pairs I have met speak German, and they have to practice their English to speak with me, I am going to learn a few words in German every time I am with them. At the beach we worked on the numbers, which I kind of already knew up until 10, so its a long road till I will be understanding anything they are saying about me in German.
That night after we got home at 10 pm after waiting a long time for the two different buses, a thing not too uncommon, especially on a Sunday in Spain, as the schedule of buses and trains is more limited than on a week day. As the last bus usually hits each station around the 10 o'clock hour we took a taxi into the city for 4.30 euros and walked up to the old castle on top of the hill to hear a free concert by a local band called los dilcuentes, or something like that.
As we held hands through the crowd I noticed how uniquely so many of the, probably all the young people in Jerez and the surrounding area, where dressed. There were punk rock, alternative, fashionable, less-is-more-revealing, and of course the typical spanish dressed people. I will wait to explain this fashion for another blog after I am able to sneak some photographs to go along with my descriptions.
Then today, which is Tuesday, I took the baby on a walk to the carrefore, which is actually French owned, and is really just like a giant walmart. After I was able to find some face wash and body lotion, no easy task, and the prices of cosmetics and bathroom essentials is more expensive here in Spain, I took the baby to a cafe to have a cafe con leche, coffee and milk and I fed the baby yogurt.
Then we were walking home and I was waiting for the baby to fall asleep when we passed the famous Equestrian school of Jerez. I stopped to point out the white horse running around to the baby and the guard said I could go in. So for about 20 minutes I stood in the shade as the baby and I watched the horse trainers running the horses around, cleaning out stalls, walking some other horses and all of them smiling at the baby. lol.
I snuck a few photos, unsure if I was even allowed to take them, and decided to come back another day to get more photos and information on the place.
From Jerez we took a bus to the train station using our bus passes that for a whole month only cost 18 euros. Then we took a train that costs 1.50 euros each way to El Puerto de Santa Maria, only like 10-12 minutes away, and finally we took another bus through El Puerto to get to the bay of Cadiz.
From the beach we could see the Peninsula of Cadiz on the other side of the bay, and sail boats and wind surfers enjoying the protected waters of the bay. The water is dirtier than when I was in Zahara on Friday, but that is to be expected from a bay, which also offers a little warmer water than the open ocean at Zahara. As I waded my way into the water I was worried about what possible animals or fish I could step on, not being able to see the bottom clearly, but then I was re-assured by the other au pairs that the waters of this area do not have sting rays.
Since all the other au pairs I have met speak German, and they have to practice their English to speak with me, I am going to learn a few words in German every time I am with them. At the beach we worked on the numbers, which I kind of already knew up until 10, so its a long road till I will be understanding anything they are saying about me in German.
That night after we got home at 10 pm after waiting a long time for the two different buses, a thing not too uncommon, especially on a Sunday in Spain, as the schedule of buses and trains is more limited than on a week day. As the last bus usually hits each station around the 10 o'clock hour we took a taxi into the city for 4.30 euros and walked up to the old castle on top of the hill to hear a free concert by a local band called los dilcuentes, or something like that.
As we held hands through the crowd I noticed how uniquely so many of the, probably all the young people in Jerez and the surrounding area, where dressed. There were punk rock, alternative, fashionable, less-is-more-revealing, and of course the typical spanish dressed people. I will wait to explain this fashion for another blog after I am able to sneak some photographs to go along with my descriptions.
Then today, which is Tuesday, I took the baby on a walk to the carrefore, which is actually French owned, and is really just like a giant walmart. After I was able to find some face wash and body lotion, no easy task, and the prices of cosmetics and bathroom essentials is more expensive here in Spain, I took the baby to a cafe to have a cafe con leche, coffee and milk and I fed the baby yogurt.
Then we were walking home and I was waiting for the baby to fall asleep when we passed the famous Equestrian school of Jerez. I stopped to point out the white horse running around to the baby and the guard said I could go in. So for about 20 minutes I stood in the shade as the baby and I watched the horse trainers running the horses around, cleaning out stalls, walking some other horses and all of them smiling at the baby. lol.
I snuck a few photos, unsure if I was even allowed to take them, and decided to come back another day to get more photos and information on the place.
Friday, October 9, 2009
Donde Europa se encuentra a Africa
When we arrived at the beach in the little town of Zahara, that is a summer getaway for people from all parts of Spain and especially Madrid, my Spanish family pointed out to me that through the haze and just across the Atlantic Ocean you can see Africa. As I squinted my eyes and could barely make out the outline of a mountain across the water a thrill went down my spine of just how amazing the place where I am living is. To see a place that represents, through both its location, landscape, and architectural heritage the interaction of two continents and completely different histories, cultures and people, of Africa and Europe coming together between a short distance of ocean to influence one another. Of my limited travel experience in North Africa, I thought that the village of Zahara reminded me a lot of many of the places I visited around the country of Tunisia that also falls along the coast of North Africa. More than all this the thrill I felt upon witnessing another continent before my eyes so suddenly came from the connection that this small strip of land and sea provides between two completely different worlds, where Europe finds Africa.
The drive in car from Jerez de la Frontera to Zahara takes roughly 58 minutes through countryside and just maybe two small towns. According to my family the beach we went to just east of the town of Zahara and within their beach house community complex is the best in Spain. The beach stretches for at least a mile and the sand is clean, except for the occasional trash, and filled with interesting shells weathered down by the waves and small rocks that are smooth and perfect for skipping. The beach has an embankment before you reach the water, but nothing at all insurmountable and beyond that the water is refreshing for October and the waves come in sets with strength but not too roughly. As I tested the waters I saw a surfer enter the water to my right along the beach, though few other people were out because as today was a Friday, and October is no longer summer, not very many people go to the beach anymore. Today was a local holiday in Jerez, but only here, so the children did not have school, but everywhere else they did. We had little traffic on the drive in except for the occasional tractor or truck and though there were some people walking around Zahara, I have been told that in the summer you cannot find parking there and the town grows by about 1000 percent. In the winter the residents of Zahara live off of fishing and agriculture. Driving back to Jerez at night I could see the lights of the boats heading out to sea to begin a long night of fishing that will not end until 4-5 tomorrow morning. Though the weather was pleasant today apparently normally Zahara, up the river that enters the sea north of the city and in the surrounding countryside it is quite windy and wind generated power comes mainly from this area for Spain. Even driving into the area I could see some large windmills but it was not even until the late afternoon that enough wind arrived to begin turning their large blades.
As always for me, the beach is a place of my heart, no matter what country or continent or ocean I am dipping my feet into, therefore today, though busy and full of playing with children, was a restful one for my soul and one that restored some peace to my mind and body after a long week of adjustments here in Jerez. Even though the weather was warm at the beach and I was able to get a little more of a tan, the cool days are fast approaching in the South of Spain and in another week or so I will be able to wear a sweater and pants at the same time.
The drive in car from Jerez de la Frontera to Zahara takes roughly 58 minutes through countryside and just maybe two small towns. According to my family the beach we went to just east of the town of Zahara and within their beach house community complex is the best in Spain. The beach stretches for at least a mile and the sand is clean, except for the occasional trash, and filled with interesting shells weathered down by the waves and small rocks that are smooth and perfect for skipping. The beach has an embankment before you reach the water, but nothing at all insurmountable and beyond that the water is refreshing for October and the waves come in sets with strength but not too roughly. As I tested the waters I saw a surfer enter the water to my right along the beach, though few other people were out because as today was a Friday, and October is no longer summer, not very many people go to the beach anymore. Today was a local holiday in Jerez, but only here, so the children did not have school, but everywhere else they did. We had little traffic on the drive in except for the occasional tractor or truck and though there were some people walking around Zahara, I have been told that in the summer you cannot find parking there and the town grows by about 1000 percent. In the winter the residents of Zahara live off of fishing and agriculture. Driving back to Jerez at night I could see the lights of the boats heading out to sea to begin a long night of fishing that will not end until 4-5 tomorrow morning. Though the weather was pleasant today apparently normally Zahara, up the river that enters the sea north of the city and in the surrounding countryside it is quite windy and wind generated power comes mainly from this area for Spain. Even driving into the area I could see some large windmills but it was not even until the late afternoon that enough wind arrived to begin turning their large blades.
As always for me, the beach is a place of my heart, no matter what country or continent or ocean I am dipping my feet into, therefore today, though busy and full of playing with children, was a restful one for my soul and one that restored some peace to my mind and body after a long week of adjustments here in Jerez. Even though the weather was warm at the beach and I was able to get a little more of a tan, the cool days are fast approaching in the South of Spain and in another week or so I will be able to wear a sweater and pants at the same time.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Pescado
For all you non Spanish speakers I have a little lesson to teach you, and it is about the difference between un pez y pescado. Un pez is a fish, and pescado is fish. As I sat at the dining table awaiting the classically late and rather large spanish lunch with a plate of fish in front of me and a little fish swimming in the tank across from me I did not really care what the differences between a pez and a pescado were, I was completely concentrating on the task at hand, get a half fish larger than my hand down, and keeping it down, while the little innocent fish swam around its tank, accusing and taunting me at the same time.
Earlier I had stood in the kitchen and watched as multiple plates of fish and shrimp were prepared in different ways for this grand meal. The reason for our large meal today was that the sister of my employer and therefore daughter of the grandma who helps me care for the children was coming home from a vacation in Russia, full of interesting stories to share during the meal, though that only becomes important later in my story. So I watched as the grandma prepared the food and we chatted in spanish about food from different places and what we like to eat/bake/not to make. One thing became clear while I watched her prepare this dish, the meal to come was going to be one that affected my entire life in these coming months while living in Spain, would I be able to enjoy many of the local and traditional meals of Spain the so often contain all sorts of sea food?
Now back to the large fish on my plate. I strategically waited till everyone was sitting and already beginning to enjoy their own food before I even began to pull the fish scales away and pry it off the bone. To an experienced eye it must have been completely obvious that I am completely inexperienced in de-boning a fish. Finally I valiantly made my way to the white, or mostly white meat, and yes with the cute little fish still happily swimming in the background. I took my first small but courageous bite...
... and I realized that if I were to enjoy fish, in a place where it dominates their food and comes fresh from the oceans of the Mediteranean and Atlantic, this would be the place. It had a slight hint of butter to it, or maybe that was just the rich olive oil grown abundantly in this region of Spain and used daily in their cooking. I took a few more small bites to see if I was just attempting to convince myself that I would enjoy this, but no, as I consumed the whole half of fish handed to me by a family that yes knew I did not particularly enjoy fish. Now even though the fish tasted quite good, and to those who know me, they must know how large a stretch it is for me to say a fish tasted good, there was still the emotional and mental aspect to eating the fish that I was not sure when my mind would catch up with me and I would suddenly run for the bathroom.
Here is where the fortune of the traveling sister comes in. Though all her stories were in Spanish, she spent the meal relating to her family of her travels in Moscow and of seeing the tomb of Lenin. The grandma watched me as much as she watched her daughter relate these stories, constantly surprised and impressed that I understand what her daughter was saying. Through the distraction of the stories and the savoring flavor of Andelucian cuisine, I successfully enjoying my first fish and further conquered my fear of eating fish but finishing the meal with a snack of smoked salmon with a cream cheese filling with walnuts and a salad of shrimp, tuna, potatoes, and corn.
Though I must beg forgiveness for spending an entire post bragging of my success with the local cuisine, I can now with confidence and in my own conscience recognize the difference between un pez y un pescado, the one you eat and the other a beloved pet.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Domingo,
Since arriving in Spain on Thursday night I have woken up at 5 in the morning each day and been unable to return to sleep.
As was to be expected today i woke up at 5:04 am and yet I was able to go to sleep again till 9 am. This is just one example
of how I am already adjusting to living here. A large part of me is just impatiently waiting until I am totally adjusted to
life here and will not have to be guessing and feeling awkward all the time, yet I keep reminding myself to realize every moment
as it comes and enjoy it for what it is. I know that even in just a month I will look back and wonder at how I saw everything
around me at first and how different it all appears now, so I am attempting to enjoy the honeymoon stage of adjustment while it
is here. After attending Catholic church with my family here and learning what it really means that Spain is a catholic country,
here in Jerez there is little else except Catholic churches, I took a rest acquainting myself with Spain's local t.v. network
then I took a half hour walk to downtown Jerez. I wondered the almost empty streets for about 45 more minutes then sat at a bar
under an umbrella and sketched some architecture for awhile. As was to be expected I had a couple of whistles and some heads turn
in cars, but really little other interaction with other people. One lady was attempting to move her chair past my table and she asked
me to move the chair next to me a little back in Spanish then followed the request with the comment, "If you can understand what I am saying to you"
as I was in the middle of politely telling her that she could take the chair next to me, the one blocking her way, I just moved the chair back and
did not comment in return. I ordered a cerveza and received a pale beer that tasted European. What does European taste like, I am not sure I
can describe it exactly, I just thought when I took the first sip that it reminded me of some pale ales I had in London and that it was
light and refreshing in the afternoon heat. All the shops I passed through downtown where closed because it is Sunday, but I appreciated this
as it prevented me from indulging my recently acquired shopping addiction. Since all the shops where closed I had time to think through
what I would want to buy and decided that I am only going to buy things when I realize a need for them. An example of this is that I did not
bring a small purse/bag to carry around day to day, therefore my next shopping project will be to find the perfect purse...
Since arriving in Spain on Thursday night I have woken up at 5 in the morning each day and been unable to return to sleep.
As was to be expected today i woke up at 5:04 am and yet I was able to go to sleep again till 9 am. This is just one example
of how I am already adjusting to living here. A large part of me is just impatiently waiting until I am totally adjusted to
life here and will not have to be guessing and feeling awkward all the time, yet I keep reminding myself to realize every moment
as it comes and enjoy it for what it is. I know that even in just a month I will look back and wonder at how I saw everything
around me at first and how different it all appears now, so I am attempting to enjoy the honeymoon stage of adjustment while it
is here. After attending Catholic church with my family here and learning what it really means that Spain is a catholic country,
here in Jerez there is little else except Catholic churches, I took a rest acquainting myself with Spain's local t.v. network
then I took a half hour walk to downtown Jerez. I wondered the almost empty streets for about 45 more minutes then sat at a bar
under an umbrella and sketched some architecture for awhile. As was to be expected I had a couple of whistles and some heads turn
in cars, but really little other interaction with other people. One lady was attempting to move her chair past my table and she asked
me to move the chair next to me a little back in Spanish then followed the request with the comment, "If you can understand what I am saying to you"
as I was in the middle of politely telling her that she could take the chair next to me, the one blocking her way, I just moved the chair back and
did not comment in return. I ordered a cerveza and received a pale beer that tasted European. What does European taste like, I am not sure I
can describe it exactly, I just thought when I took the first sip that it reminded me of some pale ales I had in London and that it was
light and refreshing in the afternoon heat. All the shops I passed through downtown where closed because it is Sunday, but I appreciated this
as it prevented me from indulging my recently acquired shopping addiction. Since all the shops where closed I had time to think through
what I would want to buy and decided that I am only going to buy things when I realize a need for them. An example of this is that I did not
bring a small purse/bag to carry around day to day, therefore my next shopping project will be to find the perfect purse...
Friday, October 2, 2009
Acabo de llegar...
So I have officially been in Jerez de la frontera for twenty four hours, but I have still seen so little of the city. I am impatiently still in the adjusting phase and simply cannnot wait till my jetlag is over. My bedroom here is more of a loft abiding the third floor of the house. I also have a balcony maybe three times the size of my room just beyond some sliding glass doors. My room is decorated in black and white with red accents, most everything in the room appears to be from ikea and follows the practical, simplistic and yet stylish style that classifies most european homes, at least in my mind. Really the room is quite nice and just right for me.
The children I have been hired to play with are a girl, who is four and a half, and a baby boy who just turned one. The little boy and I took a walk through the park near our house today and together we discovered the beauty of the dancing water springing from the many fountains in the park. The park was quite large and a little wild looking with many large trees, but also well groomed with my paths, benches and smaller themed gardens within its grounds. Some of these smaller gardens had interesting names like the music garden, jardin de musica, and the romantic garden, jardin romantico, and even one called the forest garden, jardin forestal. Also found in this labrynth of a park are many peacocks and as we would turn a corner and see some, I loved to see the look of surprise and joy spread over the little boys face as we watched them simply walk around and eat grass. There were many mothers also walking their children and some even said, hola to me. I even saw one young couple strolling through the park and enjoying the same birds and flowers and the child and I.
Maybe one of the things I am most greatful for at this point is that the spanish here is not as hard to understand as I imagined, or at least not when I am awake enough for it to sink in!
The children I have been hired to play with are a girl, who is four and a half, and a baby boy who just turned one. The little boy and I took a walk through the park near our house today and together we discovered the beauty of the dancing water springing from the many fountains in the park. The park was quite large and a little wild looking with many large trees, but also well groomed with my paths, benches and smaller themed gardens within its grounds. Some of these smaller gardens had interesting names like the music garden, jardin de musica, and the romantic garden, jardin romantico, and even one called the forest garden, jardin forestal. Also found in this labrynth of a park are many peacocks and as we would turn a corner and see some, I loved to see the look of surprise and joy spread over the little boys face as we watched them simply walk around and eat grass. There were many mothers also walking their children and some even said, hola to me. I even saw one young couple strolling through the park and enjoying the same birds and flowers and the child and I.
Maybe one of the things I am most greatful for at this point is that the spanish here is not as hard to understand as I imagined, or at least not when I am awake enough for it to sink in!
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